Wristwatches are more than just functional time-telling devices; they are expressions of personal style and precision engineering. Among the various types of watches available, GMT watches hold a special place for enthusiasts and globetrotters alike. GMT stands for Greenwich Mean Time, the international standard time zone until 1972.  Like the GMT tells your time in the “master” time zone, a GMT watch includes the ability to tell time in a second time zone.  Let’s explore the world of GMT watches, their history, functionality, and why you need to snag one.

Watch Mechanics

The History of GMT Watches

The GMT watch’s history is closely tied to aviation. In the 1950s, Pan American World Airways (Pan Am) approached Rolex with a unique problem: their pilots needed a reliable way to keep track of time while crossing multiple time zones. Rolex responded by releasing the first GMT-Master watch in 1955, featuring a 24-hour hand, a bidirectional rotating bezel, and a distinctive red and blue (or “Pepsi”) bezel insert. This iconic timepiece quickly became a symbol of adventure and precision.  Rolex later updated the collection to the GMT-Master II in the 1980’s, which we recently discussed in our article on Rolex models here.

Rolex GMT Master

GMT Functionality

The primary function of a GMT watch is to display two different time zones simultaneously. Here’s how it works:

  1. Main Hour Hand: This hand typically shows the local time in the wearer’s current location.
  2. 24-Hour Hand: The additional hand, often in a different color, circles the dial once every 24 hours and can be set to a second time zone, commonly referred to as GMT time.
  3. Rotating Bezel: Some GMT watches have a bi-directional or unidirectional rotating bezel with a 24-hour scale, which can be used to track a third time zone or to offset the GMT hand for a quick time zone change.

Rolex Model - GMT Master

Why Do You Need a GMT Watch?

  1. Travel Companion: GMT watches are perfect companions for globetrotters who frequently cross time zones. They eliminate the need to reset the watch each time, making it convenient and efficient.
  2. Iconic Designs: Many GMT watches, like the Rolex GMT-Master and the Omega Seamaster, are renowned for their timeless and distinctive designs. Their aesthetics are as appealing as their functionality.
  3. Horological Precision: GMT watches often come equipped with high-quality automatic movements that offer impeccable accuracy, making them not only practical but also a testament to watchmaking expertise.
  4. Collectibility: Vintage and modern GMT watches have a strong following among watch collectors. Limited editions and historical significance can make them highly sought after.
  5. Versatility: GMT watches are versatile, seamlessly flowing from formal to casual occasions. They can effortlessly transition from the boardroom to the beach.

GMT watches, with their practicality, history, and elegance, have captured the hearts of watch aficionados and adventurers worldwide. Whether you’re a frequent traveler, a watch collector, or simply a lover of fine craftsmanship, a GMT watch is not just a timepiece; it’s a symbol of precision, style, and a passion for exploration. With the ability to keep time across borders and boundaries, these watches truly exemplify the concept of timeless elegance.

Military Watch and Gear

Military watches have long held a special place in the world of horology, offering a unique blend of rugged functionality and timeless style. These timepieces, originally designed for the battlefield, have transcended their utilitarian origins to become enduring symbols of durability, precision, and adventure. In this article, we’ll take you on a journey into the fascinating world of military watches, delving into their history, functionality, and affordability.

Despite their military roots, military-inspired watches have garnered a global following, making them a beloved choice among watch enthusiasts and everyday wearers alike. The enduring popularity of these watches can be attributed to their ability to effortlessly merge form and function, making them ideal companions for those who value reliability and aesthetics in their timepieces.

We’ll start by discussing the features and functionalities that set these watches apart, from their rugged exteriors to their precise movements. Then we’ll introduce you to a carefully curated list of affordable military-inspired watches under $1,000, ensuring that you can find the perfect timepiece to match your style and needs.

So, if you’re passionate about wristwatches, intrigued by history, or simply in the market for a watch that combines the best of both worlds, this blog is your guide to all things military watches. Get ready to embark on an exciting journey through time and explore the enduring charm of these exceptional timepieces. Heads-up: this page includes affiliate links. If you click and purchase, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. That being said, I only recommend watches and/or watch brands I have personally vetted and believe in.

Functionality and Features

Black AVI-8 with Orange Accents

When it comes to military watches, it’s not just about aesthetics; their functionality and features are what set them apart from other timepieces. Let’s dive into the characteristics that make military watches truly exceptional.

1. Durability: Military watches are designed to withstand the harshest conditions. Their rugged construction is built to last, making them reliable companions in the field, during outdoor adventures, or in everyday life. From sturdy cases to scratch-resistant crystals, durability is a hallmark of these timepieces.

2. Water Resistance: Military watches often boast impressive water resistance ratings. Whether you’re a diver, an outdoor enthusiast, or someone who simply values the peace of mind that comes with water-resistant watches, military timepieces are up to the task.

3. Shock Resistance: In demanding military environments, watches must endure shocks and impacts. Many military watches incorporate shock-resistant features, protecting the delicate inner mechanisms from the rigors of daily life. We’ll delve into the technology that makes them so resilient.

4. Legibility: Military watches prioritize legibility, with clear and easy-to-read dials. Whether under low-light conditions or in the heat of the moment, a quick glance should provide all the information you need. The design elements that contribute to legibility include bold numerals and dials that are uncluttered.

5. Luminous Hands and Markers: Luminosity is a key feature of military watches. Their dials often feature luminous paint on hands and markers, ensuring that time can be read in the dark. This practical element is crucial for military personnel in night operations, as well as for anyone who values readability in various lighting conditions.

6. Practical Elements: Beyond the basics, military watches may include additional practical features such as a rotating bezel for timing, chronograph functions for measuring elapsed time, and even built-in compasses. These elements enhance the functionality of the watch and cater to specific needs of the wearer.

In this section, we’ll explore how military watches combine these features to deliver reliable, robust, and functional timepieces that stand the test of time. Whether you’re considering a military watch for its resilience, water resistance, or legibility, understanding the key features will empower you to make an informed choice that aligns with your lifestyle and preferences.

Military Watch Brands

Military Watch

As we journey deeper into the world of military watches, it’s essential to appreciate the watch brands that have made a significant mark in this specialized niche. In this section, we’ll showcase some of the notable watch brands celebrated for their military watch collections and explore what makes each brand unique.

1. 2. Seiko Search” data-wplink-url-error=”true”>Seiko: Seiko’s Prospex line includes a wide range of diving and field watches, some of which have become iconic in military and adventure circles. These watches are appreciated for their durability, accuracy, and affordability.

4. 5. AVI-8AVI-8 specializes in pilot watches, which are often considered military watches.  Their watches are durable, inexpensive, and uniquely designed after incredible airplanes throughout history.

6. 7. Each of these brands brings a unique perspective to the world of military watches, whether it’s through innovative technology, historical significance, or a specific design philosophy. By understanding what sets each brand apart, you can make an informed choice when exploring military watches and discovering which one aligns with your preferences and requirements.

Affordable Military Watches Under $1,000

For those who appreciate the rugged allure of military-inspired watches but want to remain within a reasonable budget, there are excellent options available. In this section, we’ll introduce you to a carefully curated list of military-inspired timepieces under $1,000, offering a balance of style, functionality, and affordability.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. AVI-8 Spitfire Type 300 Automatic (Price: $395): With the Spitfire, AVI-8 has delivered a watch that perfectly balances style and rugged quality.  The watch features a 42mm stainless steel case, a Japanese automatic movement, and 3 colorways for the dial.  As a unique touch, the caliber is in the shape of an airplane and is visible through the exhibition caseback.  

6. 7. Each of these options provides a unique blend of affordability and military-inspired style. While the prices may vary depending on the specific model and features, they all share the common traits of durability, functionality, and a nod to military aesthetics.

Military watches are among the strongest trends in the horological world today, either because of their powerful simplicity or because they can keep up with the 21st-century adventurer. It could also come from the innate smaller size that military watches usually stick to. Regardless of the reason, military watches are here to stay. With no shortage of military-inspired watches available today, the above are just a few to start your search for the perfect addition to your collection. Good luck with your search for the perfect military watch!

 

Heads-up: this page includes affiliate links. If you click and purchase, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. That being said, I only recommend tools I have personally vetted and believe in.

“I’m ready to buy a Rolex!” After years of being a fan, you’re ready to join the club of Rolex owners. But deciding to buy a Rolex is only the first step. Now you need to decide: which Rolex model should you choose? 

The various Rolex models have significant differences, to make sure there is a model for everyone regardless of their tastes or preferences.  Here are some of the most popular Rolex models, as determined by online research and sales volumes.  

Rolex Models: Submariner 

Rolex Model - Submariner

If Rolex is the King, this is its crown.  The Submariner is the quintessential Rolex model, worn by celebrities around the globe.  Despite its prestige and value, the Submariner at its core is a tool watch.  Wearing a Rolex Submariner suits the famous around the globe but can also be pulled off by the average man, due to its simple elegance and rugged durability. 

The modern Submariner’s 300 meters of water resistance is sufficient for casual divers and many professional divers as well.  The collection includes many color combinations which are given nicknames as the GMT-Masters are (we’ll revisit the GMT’s shortly).  The most collectible color combinations are the black/steel combination, green variations (you may know them as Hulk, Starbucks, and Kermit), and the two-tone blue.  Learn more about the Submariner in our recent post here.

Rolex Models: Sea-Dweller 

Rolex Model - Sea-Dweller

For the serious professional divers and sailors, Rolex came through with what you could describe as an upgraded Submariner – the Sea-Dweller.  The Sea-Dweller shares several visual specs with the Submariner but the entire timepiece has been engineered to withstand the depths.   

The timepieces in the collection feature a helium release valve for deeper dives without affecting the watch’s timekeeping capabilities.  Modern-day Sea-Dweller models tend to include a larger case size than the average 40mm or 41mm Rolex.  The most popular of them are no different, with the 126600 (50th Anniversary) landing at 43mm and the 116660, 126660, and 136660 (James Cameron special editions) leaving their mark at 44mm.   

Rolex Models: Sky-Dweller 

Rolex Model

If the Sea-Dweller is the ultimate Rolex for sailor or divers, the Sky-Dweller would be the ultimate Rolex for pilots and businessmen who rack up frequent flyer miles.  Although the collection is only 11 years old, the timepieces in it have gained popularity since their inception in 2012.  The collection was first available only in precious metals, but mostly-steel models have been released since then to bring down the entry point and increase the demand. 

The Sky-Dweller is a complicated watch, boasting a GMT, annual calendar, and Rolex’s Ring Command Bezel.  Despite the complexities, the timepiece manages to still maintain a sleek look and keep its wearer ready to pilot a plane or attend a dinner party at a moment’s notice.  As mentioned above, the entry-level Sky-Dwellers are the most popular in the collection due to their accessibility; the most popular model is a blue dial beauty, the 326934. 

Rolex Models: GMT-Master II 

Rolex Model - GMT Master

Speaking of pilots, Rolex holds street credibility for being the first company to sell a GMT timepiece.  The original GMT collection was revised in the early 1980s and was rebranded as the GMT-Master II.  This collection shares some nuanced similarities with the Submariner collection – especially in the layout of the dial and the overall bezel design.   

The GMT-Master watches are affectionately nicknamed as are the Submariner models.  Thus, the most popular models are the “Pepsi” (red and blue bezel, ref. 126710BLRO and 126719BLRO), and the “Batman / Batgirl” (black and blue bezel, ref. 126710BLNR and 116710BLNR). 

Rolex Models: Daytona 

Rolex Model - Daytona

In all the above models, you will not see any mention of chronographs.  While Rolex is a master of timepiece technology, they do not produce many chronographs as adding subdials can start to crowd the dial.  That being said, if you have your heart set on a chronograph then Rolex has a popular watch with your name on it.  That timepiece will hail from the Daytona collection. 

Sporty and precise, the Daytona utilizes subdials in a clear way to be your timekeeping partner.  Daytona was designed with precision in mind; the three subdials included on the Daytona were sized and placed in a way to be visually-appealing.  The dials are close to one another but do not touch; preventing the appearance of being crowded.  The most popular Daytona is the 116500LN in the white dial / black subdial combination (affectionately nicknamed the “panda”).  The rare “John Mayer” 116508 and various iterations of the Everose gold 116595RBOW are also highly collectible. 

When you’re ready to start searching for your perfect Rolex, I recommend you start your journey here:

Joma Shop

The Luxury Closet

Good luck with your search and with picking the right Rolex model for you!

 

Heads-up: this page may include affiliate links. If you click and purchase, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. That being said, I only recommend companies I have personally vetted and believe in.

If you’ve collected watches for long, you have probably either bought (or envied) a Swiss-made timepiece. Those familiar with the industry know the phrase “Swiss-made” is essentially sacred to collectors and consumers alike. But few know how Switzerland became the gold standard for watchmaking – why was it there instead of somewhere like France, Germany, or the United States? Let’s unpack the story of horology and Switzerland, a love affair over 400 years in the making. 

Swiss / Switzerland Flag

Early History: From France to Geneva 

 

Prior to the 15th century, clocks were typically only found in towers around city centers. The advent of household clocks came in the 15th and 16th centuries. As clocks gained popularity, Switzerland was one of several parts of the world where watchmakers created them. Not long after that, timepieces began to be built on a more portable scale in France in the 16th century.  

Switzerland Building and IWC Clock Image

France was on track to become the watchmaking capital of the world; however, that all changed in the late 16th century.  That’s when a religious group in France called the Huguenots began facing persecution and fled to a nearby safe haven in – you guessed it – Geneva, Switzerland.  As many Huguenots refugees were skilled in watchmaking and brought their skills with them, their exodus to Switzerland changed Swiss history forever.  

Geneva had many goldsmiths at the time of the Huguenot exodus, and they were looking for a new outlet for their craft.  This was due to the theologian-turned-ruler of Geneva, John Calvin, and his ideals of embracing simplicity and denouncing wealth.  Thus, the Huguenots and goldsmiths began producing quality, portable timepieces for those in the area and for export abroad.   

From the 17th century to the 19th century, Swiss watchmaking spread from Geneva to many parts of the country. As the industry grew, it eventually overtook the horologists of Great Britain as the kings of the watchmaking world. But that kingdom was not without challenge.  

Swiss Alps and town

Switzerland’s First Crisis 

In the late 19th century, Switzerland faced its first major “crisis” that almost eradicated Swiss horology. This crisis was the rise of mass-produced watches in the United States. By producing watches in high numbers, American watchmakers were able to control costs more effectively and drive down the prices. While no one could argue with the quality of a Swiss watch, many could not justify the costly premium it required. This led to a major economic downturn in Switzerland.   

To combat the major force that was American watchmaking, Switzerland responded with a 2-pronged approach. First – they played to their strength of luxury, precise timepieces and advertised the same. The major addition, however, was the use of larger-scale production techniques to offer mid-range and even low-cost options for Swiss watches. This led to the stabilization of the Swiss horology industry until the “quartz crisis” in the 1970’s.  

When Swiss-Made Watches Met the Quartz Crisis 

But if Swiss watchmaking is still a force to be reckoned with, what happened between the devastating quartz movement (pun intended) beginning in the 1970’s, and today? Some Swiss historians believe one word represents the literal salvation for Switzerland: Swatch. Through innovation and strong marketing, Swatch brought cutting-edge style via mass-production, at a price any watch consumer could afford. Swatch drew people into Swiss watchmaking with its quartz products, but people stayed for the precise luxury offerings.  

Swatch Watch

Today, Switzerland is a powerhouse in the horology industry. Swiss-made watches still stand for quality and precision. While mechanical watches are the quintessential Swiss product, Switzerland also has numerous high-quality quartz offerings. The Swiss watch industry has shown its resilience in beating out major crises and it doesn’t plan on letting up anytime soon. Moral of the story: if you’re a watch collector or fanatic, you need a Swiss-made in your collection. If you need some ideas on high-end ones, check out our post on the Rolex Submariner.

Buying a Rolex Submariner

Rolex Submariner Watch

It’s time…  You’ve been checking out luxury watches for a long time and you’re ready to take the plunge.  You want a reputable and prestigious brand, and you landed on Rolex.  You’re off to a good start.   You want a watch that can withstand your busy life while looking ridiculously good…  And maybe with fantastic water resistance, so you can wear it to the pool this summer or while scuba diving on your honeymoon…  So you land on the iconic Submariner.  You’re on a roll with amazing choices!  But once you land there, you are left with some questions: 

  1. What kind of specs do you want your Submariner to have?
  2. Where can you buy it from and how much should you expect to pay?

Let’s “dive in deep” and tackle them one at a time so you can walk away with your dream watch and no regrets. 

What kind of specs do you want your Submariner to have? 

Rolex Submariner

The Submariner has been in existence for almost 70 years, making its debut in 1954.  While it wasn’t Rolex’s first water-resistant watch, it quickly rose as the flagship model of the company – a symbol of durability and luxury.  As you can imagine, there are dozens of variations you can find – in terms of model year differences, features, and rarity.  

Most of the major design differences came during the Submariner’s early years.  In the 1950’s and 1960’s, Rolex experimented greatly with different crown sizes and case thicknesses in the Submariner models.  In 1959; however, Rolex found the major design specs that stuck, with the release of the ref. 5512.  From that point on, the visual design of the models stayed relatively consistent.  

That is, with one major exception: the ref. 1680. Rolex fanatics may recognize that reference number.  Released in 1969, the ref. 1680 included the addition of a date window.  Whether you love, are indifferent to, or are not a fan of the date window, Rolex has released a much higher number of date models than no-date models.  Rolex has released a whopping 24 Submariner date vs. 6 Submariner no-date models as of now. Of those 24 date models, only 9 were released prior to the year 2000. All other models were after the 50th anniversary in 2003. 

While the design did not change much after the ref. 5512, there were variations inclusive of updating materials or movements, as well as some nuanced design revisions.  Aside from those, the next major changes didn’t come until 2010 and 2020, with the release of the Super Case and the increase of the case size to 41mm respectively.  Visually speaking, the Super Case and 41mm changes were the biggest since the invention of the date wheel in 1969. 

Where can you buy your Submariner from and how much should you expect to pay for it? 

As a general rule of thumb, there are 3 common ways to buy a luxury watch.  You can buy from an Authorized Dealer, from a grey market watch reseller, or from online listings.  If you want to learn more about the difference between AD and grey market, check out the Grand Caliber’s podcast – Beyond Timepieces – episode 2.  Here’s how the price scale typically pans out: 

Online listings – the cheapest 

Authorized Dealers – “retail price” a.k.a. middle of the pack in price 

Grey market – slightly higher than the “retail price” 

That being said, there are some distinct advantages to some methods of purchase over others.  For example, buying from an Authorized Dealer or the grey market will usually  guarantee you a end up with a legitimate, authentic timepiece.  As long as you use due caution and vet out your source, you shouldn’t be walking away with a “Faulex.”   

Buying from a grey market reseller also has a distinct advantage of having an incredible selection.  If a grey market reseller doesn’t have a watch, chances are solid that they can get it for you.  And most (if not all) of their inventory is in-stock and available now.  So no wasting time “playing the game” with Authorized Dealers, buying timepieces you don’t really love to “trade up” to your dream watch.  You may pay a hair more but you’ll walk away with your dream watch today.  Oftentimes, paying a bit more at a grey market reseller is still a smaller overall payment than buying multiple watches to get to your grail watch. 

A couple of great places to start your search are:

Joma Shop

The Luxury Closet

Before you start your journey to acquire a Submariner, you’ll want to set aside at least $10k – $15k. With that ballpark, you should be able to snag a standard, modern Rolex Submariner – like the Date 16610 with a black dial and a black bezel or a “Kermit” green bezel.  If the no-date look is your style, you should be able to snag a 14060, with a black dial and a black bezel. Both will have a lot of the iconic visual features you’d expect on a Rolex Submariner as well as some modern improvements like a scratch-resistant sapphire bezel.  

Will that $10k – $15k buy you any Submariner on the market? Definitely not; if you have a heavy bankroll weighing you down, you have options. Options like the original “King Sub” a.k.a. ref. 6200 with the big crown, which was only in production for a year and fewer than 300 are in existence. That model may set you back $600k or so. In addition, an immaculate-condition vintage reference will probably set you back over $1 million. 

The excellent thing about the Submariner is the range of models in between. If you want to spend $10k on a Submariner, you can find one for that. If you want to spend $250k on a Submariner, you can find one for that.  

 

Heads-up: this page may include affiliate links. If you click and purchase, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. That being said, I only recommend companies I have personally vetted and believe in.

Dive Watches Save the Day

Tell me if this has happened to you…  Your friends all go to the beach to surf and have fun in the waves.  You want to impress some of the ladies in the group, but you also don’t want your expensive timepiece to get ruined in the water.  So, you put on the no-name digital watch you got for $10 at the discount store down the road.  Suddenly, you don’t feel so impressive… Don’t ever let that happen to you again, especially because it’s completely unnecessary.  Why is that the case?  It’s all thanks to an innovation from many years ago, called the dive watch. 

Wenger Dive Watch

What is a dive watch?  According to the International Organization for Standardization (ISO), a dive watch is “designed to withstand diving in water at depths of at least 100 m and equipped with a secured measuring system to indicate the diving time, which is visible in darkness” (ISO, 2018).  Other standards of a dive watch include the presence of a second hand or subdial to verify the watch is ticking plus resistance to shock, magnetism, and corrosion.  But we’ll just focus on the most publicized standards: depth, dive timer, and luminescence. 

Dive Watch Standard 1: Depth 

Watch

On an everyday watch, you may see water resistance ratings of 30 or 50 meters.  By using gaskets within the watch, as well as screw-down crowns, pushers, and case backs, dive watches keep their components dry at much deeper water levels.  100m is the ISO standard but there are many models that take it to the next level beyond that.  Many of the major players in the dive watch arena present timepieces with at least 200m of water resistance – beating out the standard and providing a depth rating sufficient for most anyone.  However, for those hard-core divers who want to dive deeper, some watches go far beyond.   

It’s not uncommon to have a 500m depth-rated watch in one’s personal collection.  However, that’s small potatoes compared to some.  You may have seen the news not long ago about Rolex launching their DeepSea Sea-Dweller, which is rated to 3900m.  The world’s deepest-rated mechanical watch, however, goes even deeper than that: the CX Swiss Military clocks in at a massive depth rating of 6,000m!   

If you can believe it, watches can be rated even deeper than that, though they are not mechanical.  There’s an unexpected “hack” that allows for even more significant depth ratings – filling the watch with silicon-based oil.  Mechanical watches will not accurately tell time when filled with oil, as the liquid alters the rate that the balance wheel spins.  Quartz movements, on the other hand, can function unaffected when the watch is filled with a silicon-based oil.  The oil boosts the depth rating because it is not susceptible to pressure changes with deep diving.  With this technology in place, brands such as Sinn and TechnoMarine offer watch models with an insane depth rating – 12,000m!  For those not in the metric system, that’s 39,600 feet.  That’s like diving the height of Mount Everest 1.5 times! 

Dive Watch Standard 2: Dive Timer 

Rolex Dive Watch

While depth gets the most hype of the dive watch specs, dive timing is equally as important to a diver.  Even those who don’t dive know that maintaining oxygen levels is vital when diving.  The dive timer function essentially allows the wearer to determine the time that he/she has been underwater.  This is typically in the form of a unidirectional bezel, so the wearer can mark when their oxygen level will be low.  I 100% guarantee you’ve seen this trait if you have spent any length of time in the horology community – it’s when a bezel has tick marks at various time intervals and an arrow or two to point to the oxygen danger time.  Now you can impress your friends with a fun fact that there is a reason for such a bezel – to meet dive timing requirements!   

Dive Watch Standard 3: Luminescence 

Rolex Dive Watch

The final major technology that a dive watch must possess is luminescence.  Like the dive timer, the reason for this may not be obvious to non-divers.  But if you are a diver, you know it gets to be crazy dark as the depth increases.  If it’s that dark, how will you be able to use the dive timer technology to monitor your oxygen levels?  The answer is luminosity.  While this can occasionally be from a specific light-up function in the watch, a luminescent dial and/or bezel markings are the most common ways to accomplish this task.  If you own a few divers, you have probably noticed that their luminosity trumps that of your other watches.  That, like the bezel, is intentional and the mark of a great diving watch! 

Whether you are a diver or you just seek to impress your friends with style and class while hanging ten, dive watches are the perfect solution for you.  With impressive technology, strong water resistance, and brands/prices that range from $50 to $50k and up, you need a dive watch and there is one out there with your name on it (metaphorically, of course…  Unless your name is Rolex or Omega). 

 

Resources: 

ISO 6425:2018. ISO. (2018, October 17).  Retrieved February 28, 2023, from: https://www.iso.org/standard/66517.html  

You’re excited; it’s finally time for the big night on the town. Your wife looks like a million bucks in her best dress. And you’re looking fresher than a billionaire in your suit or tux. Of course, your timepiece matches your outfit perfectly to upgrade your look even more. You and your friends may be telling stories about this night for years to come. However, all too often, the stories from a night like this include the tale of a stolen watch. If you own a luxury timepiece, you are at risk of this happening to you. However, there are several steps you can take to mitigate that risk. 

Businessman Checking His Watch

We recently published an article about insurance for your watches. We won’t rehash that topic here, but insuring your watches is of the utmost importance. Truth be told, it can turn the story of a watch theft from a horrendous travesty to a frustrating annoyance. You never want your watch to be stolen, but it’s much worse if you are uninsured.

So let’s talk about ways to reduce your risk of watch theft. The first tip is to be discreet. We get that you’re proud of your new luxury timepiece; we’re right there with you. The problem comes in when you brag a little too much on social media, followed by a description of where you’ll be for an event. Or worse yet, you highlight your watch in posts from the event while you’re still there. A very simple way to exercise discretion is to post about the event you attend with your luxury timepiece after you leave the event. 

Watch Dealer Claymation

Going along with discretion on social media, you should also be discreet while wearing your timepiece. This means that, if you have sleeves, you might want to roll them down and cover your watch when you’re in certain areas prone to crime. What are those places? We have all been somewhere that made us feel unsafe, whether or not you were even wearing a timepiece. Those would be the places you would want to cover up your watch. Sometimes though, watch theft can happen in broad daylight and seemingly safe areas. That leads us to our next tip to help prevent watch theft.

When you’re out and about with your watch, whether or not you’re in an unsafe place, you should make a habit of paying close attention to those around you. Some safety experts called this situational awareness. Are you paying attention to what’s going on around you in public or are you “doom scrolling” on your phone? Staying at least semi-aware of everything around you can help prevent watch theft as well as enhance your overall safety. If someone around you is acting strange, stay away from them. Distance yourself from those exhibiting erratic or unusual behavior. Sometimes this can be a distraction technique so that the strange-acting person’s buddy can swoop in and steal your watch.

Speaking about “swooping in” leads to the next tip about watch-wearing safety. While we all know that a timepiece has the highest value in its original condition with the original strap, a criminal may be okay with only making off with the watch case and movement and losing the strap as collateral damage.  One method of watch theft is for a thief to quickly swoop in, take a knife, and slice your watch strap so the remainder of the watch falls free. To reduce the risk of that happening, you might want to opt for a timepiece with a built-in bracelet instead of wearing one with a rubber, leather, or NATO strap. It’s much harder for a thief to quickly remove the bracelet from your wrist than it is for them to cut the flexible strap and run.

Rolex Watch and Straps

Sometimes your night on the town happens out of town. Keeping your watches safe while traveling is a challenge and deserves its own safekeeping tip. Some people will say that you should only travel with one watch to prevent the theft of, or worry about, the other watches when you’re not around. That is an option, but let’s be honest: if you’re a watch addict like us, you NEED to have at least one or two watches available for each day that you’re gone. If that’s you, we get it. But make sure that you have a plan to protect your other watches while you’re not wearing them. If you’re traveling to a hotel room or a cruise ship stateroom, is there a safe in the room? Can you lock it up in a way that employees of that establishment cannot access it? Do you have a small safe or lockbox of your own that you bring with you when you travel? These may not be details that are as fun as planning your experiences on the vacation itself, but as the adage goes “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” As a side note, a safe may also be a wise investment for your home to prevent watch theft on an everyday basis.

One final note about traveling: you may have heard or read stories about some unfortunate men who have had their watches stolen after bringing an “adult companion” back to their room. We’re not going to get up in your business about this one; we will simply say that if you want to bring someone back to your room, make sure you know who they are and that they’re trustworthy. And it doesn’t hurt to lock up your timepieces before they get there too.

Talking about watch theft is not fun, but it is a necessity in today’s world. Taking some simple precautions and attempting to remain situationally aware at all times will minimize your chances of adding this chapter to your story.

Should I Get Insurance for my Watch?

You finally got it: your grail watch.  Maybe it’s a Rolex or maybe an Audemars Piguet.  Regardless, it’s finally yours.  You see it when you close your eyes and love opening your eyes to see it on your wrist.  

Rolex Watch

But… 

Tragedy could be right around the corner.  Watch theft is on the rise since inflation is driving thieves to make ends meet by getting new inventory.  While we all hope that does not happen, don’t let your grail be protected by hope alone.   Insurance is the protection you need – specifically, watch or jewelry insurance.  So If you’re asking yourself “Should I get insurance for my watch?” – the answer is 100% YES!!! 

If you’re well-acquainted with insurance, you may be asking “Wouldn’t a watch theft be covered under my homeowner’s or renter’s policy?”  Unfortunately, some policies exclude jewelry while others have a VERY low limit.  It’s pretty common, in fact, to see a limit of $1,000-$5,000 for jewelry coverage on a standard home or renter’s policy.  And if your significant other’s wedding ring were to be stolen in the same theft incident, they would all come out of the same bucket of coverage. 

Thankfully, today it’s incredibly easy to obtain watch or jewelry insurance to protect your luxury timepieces (or even mid-level ones) against theft and other calamities.  While there are a multitude of ways to protect your timepiece collection, a few of the most common (and simple) ways to do so are: 

Note: While we aren’t insurance experts and can’t give you legal advice on what a specific policy does or does not cover, we dove into these most common ways to insure your watches and obtained some of the FAQ’s you’ll want to know about each.  If you need legal advice – consult with a lawyer or folks in the insurance industry. 

Hodinkee Watch Insurance

Hodinkee Insurance 

If you’re a watch fan, you’ve heard of Hodinkee.  While most know them from the content they post, they are actually a major player in the timepiece insurance game.  Their website makes it sound so easy to get coverage – is it?  We went through the actual quote process to see.  Turns out – yes, it’s about as fast and easy as they come.  Within 3 minutes, we got a quote for an annual (1-year) insurance policy and the option to Apple Pay for it.   

Aside from being easy, Hodinkee Insurance offers global protection (note: you have to reside in the U.S. but your timepieces are covered wherever you travel) as well as a zero deductible policy.  That means you pay $0 out of pocket should you have to file a claim for a watch loss.  With protection from theft, loss, and damage, as well as “appreciation protection” to help your insurance keep pace with value just in case the value of your investment rises, Hodinkee seems like a fabulous way to insure.  

Jewelers Mutual Insurance

Jewelers Mutual Insurance  

Another major player in jewelry insurance is Jewelers Mutual.  The signup process and policy itself with them seemed comparable to Hodinkee. We were able to secure a quote in less than a minute, though the application to apply for the policy took a bit longer since the quote didn’t require much info. Of note, our tests were obtaining quotes for a single timepiece.  It goes without saying that, if you’ve spent hours amassing a fantastic timepiece collection, you may have to spend more time setting up insurance on it.   

A policy through Jewelers includes similar “perils” (or losses that are covered under the policy) to Hodinkee – loss, theft, damage, and disappearance.  It, too, provides worldwide coverage for your timepieces and an option for a $0 deductible (though the premium will be a bit higher if you opt for it).    

Wax Insurance Menu

Wax Insurance  

A newer player in the watch insurance game is Wax Insurance.  With Wax, coverage can be expanded beyond just jewelry to include handbags, sports memorabilia, trading cards, fine art, and more.  So if you have some other items of value to insure, it may be worth your while to check out Wax.  The only catch with Wax is that you can’t set up a policy yourself online – when you request a quote, the website takes down some basic info and sends it to an agent to review.  From that point, the agent will send you an email with any information they need and any next steps to proceed with a policy.   

 

Adding Coverage to Your Existing Renter’s or Homeowner’s Insurance Policy 

The final mainstream way to insure your timepiece collection is through your homeowner’s or renter’s policy, but with a caveat.  You may recall we mentioned the coverage is minimal through the standard policies.  If you have a timepiece or collection worth insuring, you’ll need to “add a rider” to your policy.  That’s insurance jargon for adding a separate line of coverage within the homeowner’s or renter’s policy.  A rider essentially crosses out any limits in the standard policy and spells out new terms.    

We won’t be able to help you get a sample quote on this one, since all property insurance companies will vary greatly in terms of coverage, limits, procedure, etc.  While the process will likely be a bit lengthier to get your insurance rider set up, your advantage would be for all of your home/renter’s and jewelry insurance to be “under one roof” – that is, with the same company or within the same policy.  Some folks prefer to keep all the insurance together for simplicity of knowing who to contact after a loss, who to pay the premiums to, etc. 

 

Whichever insurance option you select, you’ll be making a wise investment.  After all, if you invested in your grail watch (or in a collection of them), wouldn’t you want to invest in protecting them?   

New watch companies pop up often and it’s hard to know which ones really have a unique twist on the timepiece. I’d like to take a couple of minutes to introduce you to one such unique company – Benjamin James watches.

Benjamin James Watch Models

Benjamin James is named after its founder, Benjamin James Adams. The concept behind the watch company is to make watches truly wearable – small enough to be comfortable yet with the right level of wrist presence. Perhaps his hashtag says it all about his approach: #SayNoToOversizedWatches.

 

     

To be honest, Adams’ watches have some impressive specs on paper for a first release. The case diameter is 31mm but the rectangle shape gives it a different feel than you typically get from a smaller watch. The thickness should be just over 8mm and I’m guessing it’ll be pretty lightweight too. Perhaps most impressive is the fact that Benjamin James will feature Swiss-Made movements – the Sellita SW210-1 B for the automatic and the Ronda 762 for the quartz.

Aside from a unique take on size and design, it’s noteworthy that Benjamin James is steeped in Benjamin’s history in England. From the name of his first collection to the dial design inspired by his hometown’s coat of arms – it all stems from home. Check out the multiple colorway photos on his website and you’ll also see phenomenal integration of the colors from Benjamin’s home in England.

The Benjamin James watch company will officially launch on Kickstarter on September 26th. I don’t have all the specifics of the Kickstarter campaign but I’m intrigued and I’ll be checking it out on the 26th. And should Benjamin James have a successful campaign, I hope to do a hands-on review of one in late 2023 or early 2024.

Let’s be honest – I like big watches and I cannot lie…

However, sometimes a smaller watch comes across my path that I still fall in love with. Sometimes I like the way they look and sometimes I can’t get over amazing comfort.

And then every once in a while, I find a smaller timepiece that both looks and feels amazing – a watch I can wear all day without even realizing it’s on my wrist. I’d like to show you a watch like that: the Bausele MIL-SPEC collection.

The watch I’ve been wearing is the “Classic FIeld | Desert Sand” – a military watch in beige. While it came with 2 straps, the modified NATO-style one that came on it is so supremely comfortable that I haven’t removed it to try the other. At first glance, I was very impressed by the watch’s packaging – a large box with a plastic hard case (the “dive case” style) inside.

Let’s talk about some of the specs of the watch itself here. This is a watch created in accordance with U.S. military specifications and a watch assembled by U.S. military veterans. And while it is available to the general public, it probably won’t be for long – only 250 were made in this color combination.

The watch has a Seiko NH38 automatic movement with a “hacking” feature – the ability to stop the advancement of time to sync up with an official timekeeper. The movement’s 24 jewels lead to smooth motion and the timepiece has a 41-hour power reserve as well.

Made with functionality in mind, the case contains brushed 316L stainless steel to prevent light reflection. For visual appeal and added comfort, the watch has a unique case design. Bausele founder and lead designer, Christophe Hoppe worked with his watchmaker to modify the back of the watch, making it more rounded than normal. This allows for a very cool caseback and also helps it conform more easily to the wrist. The dial is done in a sandwich style with fantastic lume. Relatively simple in style, the dial keeps the time easy to read.

If you own or have checked out a Bausele before, you know “The Jewel in the Crown” is one of the most unique and quintessential features of the Australian timepieces. This watch is no different – every time you glance at the crown of the watch, you’ll see actual soil from military forts across the United States. I love the idea that I can be motivated by the men and women who defend our great country every time I look down at the watch.

Bausele is only about a dozen years old but it has become one of my favorite brands. It’s 100% on my bucket list to buy one (though I may need to wait for the Endless Sunrise, since orange is my favorite color). That being said, this field watch is a perfect timepiece for any military watch fan or for anyone looking for a small and comfortable watch. Hop on the beige or green before the limited edition timepieces are gone forever.